A tale of 2 Pinot Noirs
January 29, 2011 Leave a comment
Meerlust Estate is a great winery located in Stellenbosch near Cape Town in South Africa. I first discovered the Estate tasting their flagship wine, the Rubicon. It is a great Bordeaux Blend made of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc.
In a previous visit to that region, I had arrived too late on a Saturday afternoon and the winery was already closed (only open from 10am to 2pm on Saturdays). This time, I left earlier to make sure I could hit the tasting room and discover their other wines.
The most notable tasting experience this time was around their Pinot Noir. They offered both a 2008 and a 2003 for tasting. In between the two vintages, the winemaker had changed and so this was a unique experience not only to taste a vertical of the Pinot Noir but also see how much the winemaker had impacted the type of wine.
The 2003 was very nice on the nose with refined and complex odors. The color was on the darker side. The taste was great with flavours that lasted long in mouth and evolved as the wine made its way through the palate. It was very much in the spirit of a nice Burgundy wine and could definitively still age well.
The 2008, on the other hand, was much closer to a typical new world wine. It had strong fruity odors and equally intense fruit flavors in the mouth. The taste remained equal through the tasting and the wine did not exhibit much complexity.
In talking with the person in charge of the tasting, he volunteered that the new winemaker wanted to achieve a wine easier to drink and one that could be sold and drunk faster than the previous generation Pinot Noir. He added that the economic requirement was important in the mix and keeping the wines in the cellar for too long before they were ready for consumption had a cash flow impact on the winery so the new winemaking model chosen allowed a faster sell of the new vintages.
OK, I get that… but then he added that pretty much anyone who tasted the two one after the other, would prefer the 2003. Wow, I did not expect that. Please, please, please Meerlust Estate, go back to your old ways!